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Thread: Dish 1000.2 with inline power inserter and no additional switch?

  1. #1
    boozy76 Guest

    Default Dish 1000.2 with inline power inserter and no additional switch?

    Ok I have been doing a lot of reading and haven't been able to find my answer.
    Can I just hook up a power inserter in between my limesat air and my dish 1000.2 #1 port?
    I dont need an extra switch other than the built in one on the 1000.2.
    Is there any back feed from the power inserter that could damage my stb?
    Is there any difference between power inserters that came with the dpp44 or the sw44?
    I have an extra from an sw44 that i can use but just want to be sure that it will work?
    It will save me from crawling through the attic to run another coax! And save me money for not having to buy a dpp44 with power inserter!
    So I am really hoping this is an option.
    Thanks Boozy

  2. #2
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    You should not use a power insertor on the same port as an FTA receiver. Place the power insertor on Port 1 of the lnb and your receiver on port 2.
    Please post support questions in the forum, not by PM. Thanks...

  3. #3
    boozy76 Guest

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    Is that because of a backfeed from the power inserter? Shouldn't it be one way?
    Or is there another reason?
    Thanks Boozy

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    FTA receivers do not have the internal power protection that provider receivers do.
    Please post support questions in the forum, not by PM. Thanks...

  5. #5
    arflaw Guest

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    I have ran fta receivers on power inserter line for years with no adverse effects.

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    But have you ran this particular dish?
    Daddy & Mommy will always miss you

    Please do not PM Me with questions
    Post them in the forums so others may learn and benefit from your experience.

  7. #7
    beb022 Guest

    Thumbs up

    Yes this is what I use just make sure power inserter goes to port 1. SV8000 will not work unless power inserter is used. No additinal switch needed just the power inserter. I also have a second dish500 connected for 91 works great.

    SV8000,Freesat 800,Nfusion HD.
    Last edited by beb022; 04-05-2012 at 03:35 AM.

  8. #8
    boozy76 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by stman View Post
    FTA receivers do not have the internal power protection that provider receivers do.
    K I still don't understand.
    Why would I have to worry about the internal power protection of the receiver if there is no current back feeding from the power inserter?

    I have read elsewhere that I should only hook the power inserter up through a dpp44 to port 1 and the another line from my stb to port 2 of the dpp44. Which I cant see why I would have to run a switch before a switch.

    And I have also read just go to port 1 directly on the lnb from the power inserter and run another line from port 2 of the lnb to the stb.
    Which i cant seem to get a good reason why I wouldn't just run the power inserter on the same line as my stb to port 1 of my lnb and in doing so not waste 1 of my 3 ports.

    Really hoping for a better answer than you just cant? I think this could be a help to a lot of people out there!

    1) Does the current from the power inserter only flow to the lnb or does it also back feed to the receiver?

    2) Is there a difference in the power between a power inserter that came from a dpp44 and a sw44 or is the power inserter the same?

    Thanks for the help Boozy

    And just tell me if i'm being stupid!! haha

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    My bench tests show that there is a difference between the Dish receivers and some (not all) FTA receivers running on the DP or DPP 44 power inserter receiver inputs.

    The Dish receivers know that there is a power inserter there as they sense it during a switch check, a FTA receiver doesn't have that luxury, so it has to contend with a slight input mismatch, if the FTA receiver can handle the mismatch, then eventually something will go phooey.

    I wounder how many of those caps in some power supply boards in some receivers have been damaged due to this mismatch??? No way to tell without a test on that system to see what caused the caps to go bad in the first place.

    I can't remember how many discussions I have had about this problem, and how many have come back with "I have done it, and it works fine on my setup", great if they have done it and the receiver/system is working, then good job.

    But not all installs by all people are going to be exactly the same, not all will have the same equipment, the same dish, LNB's, coax,switches and other assorted junk, and other stuff that will affect the over all outcome of their systems performance.

    This is why I always tell someone who is doing the install of a DP44 or DPP44 switch or power inserter to use the power inserter on the #1 port, by its self and run the receivers off the other ports, it is safer this way, and could avoid any POSSIBLE future problems.

    So to Boozy76, do the install any way you want, all we are telling you to do is play it safe.
    ♫♫♫ Iím a lumberjack and Iím OK ♫♫♫ I drink all night and sleep all day. ♫♫♫



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  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by boozy76 View Post
    K I still don't understand.
    Why would I have to worry about the internal power protection of the receiver if there is no current back feeding from the power inserter?

    I have read elsewhere that I should only hook the power inserter up through a dpp44 to port 1 and the another line from my stb to port 2 of the dpp44. Which I cant see why I would have to run a switch before a switch.

    And I have also read just go to port 1 directly on the lnb from the power inserter and run another line from port 2 of the lnb to the stb.
    Which i cant seem to get a good reason why I wouldn't just run the power inserter on the same line as my stb to port 1 of my lnb and in doing so not waste 1 of my 3 ports.

    Really hoping for a better answer than you just cant? I think this could be a help to a lot of people out there!

    1) Does the current from the power inserter only flow to the lnb or does it also back feed to the receiver?

    2) Is there a difference in the power between a power inserter that came from a dpp44 and a sw44 or is the power inserter the same?

    Thanks for the help Boozy

    And just tell me if i'm being stupid!! haha
    Answer to # 1. Current will go all over the place, to any circuit connected to the power supply, now in the DC voltage power inserter there is a DC blocking cap, this stops the DC current/voltage from the power inserter from getting back into the receivers power supply.

    This is also why you can't use this on any legacy switch or LNB, the DC switching voltage from the reciver will not get to the LNB, it will be blocked at the power inseter and the LNB will be stuck in the Horizontal or Left polaritys, (+18v) due to the continuious 20 volts from the power inserter, and you will be missing about half the channels on the satellite.

    The DP or DPP 44 power inserters DC output is from 20 to 24 volts DC, at 1.4 amps, this is much higher then any FTA receivers power output at the LNB's input connection on the receiver, the receiver puts out at a maximum (on most FTA receivers) 18 to 19 volts DC at 500 mA, on some 600 mA.

    What would happen if the DC blocking cap wasn't there, is the voltage and current from the power inserter would flow back into the receivers power supply and turn something into toast.

    Answer to #2.

    The DPP 44 power inserters output varies from 20 to 24 volts DC @ 1.4 amps, this is because it has voltage loss detection, to compensate for long cable runs, it will only do this when connected to a DPP44 switch.
    The SW44 power inserter has a fixed output at 20 volts DC at about 1 amp.
    Last edited by Terryl; 04-05-2012 at 05:29 AM.
    ♫♫♫ Iím a lumberjack and Iím OK ♫♫♫ I drink all night and sleep all day. ♫♫♫



    Coming soon to a crop circle near you.....

    There is a 66 and third % chance that I'm on the right planet...

    "I'm happier then a Jackalope in a balloon factory"

    "First rule of testing satellites"
    "If its working fine now, then don't mess with it"

    "Second rule of testing satellites"
    "If you did mess with it, and now it doesn't work, can you blame someone else?"

    "Third rule of testing satellites"
    "If you did mess with it, and it doesn't work now, and you can't blame someone else"
    "Can you HIDE it"?

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  13. #11
    boozy76 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terryl View Post
    My bench tests show that there is a difference between the Dish receivers and some (not all) FTA receivers running on the DP or DPP 44 power inserter receiver inputs.

    The Dish receivers know that there is a power inserter there as they sense it during a switch check, a FTA receiver doesn't have that luxury, so it has to contend with a slight input mismatch, if the FTA receiver can handle the mismatch, then eventually something will go phooey.

    I wounder how many of those caps in some power supply boards in some receivers have been damaged due to this mismatch??? No way to tell without a test on that system to see what caused the caps to go bad in the first place.

    I can't remember how many discussions I have had about this problem, and how many have come back with "I have done it, and it works fine on my setup", great if they have done it and the receiver/system is working, then good job.

    But not all installs by all people are going to be exactly the same, not all will have the same equipment, the same dish, LNB's, coax,switches and other assorted junk, and other stuff that will affect the over all outcome of their systems performance.

    This is why I always tell someone who is doing the install of a DP44 or DPP44 switch or power inserter to use the power inserter on the #1 port, by its self and run the receivers off the other ports, it is safer this way, and could avoid any POSSIBLE future problems.

    So to Boozy76, do the install any way you want, all we are telling you to do is play it safe.
    So I will run the power inserter on its own coax to port 1 of my lnb or do I have to go through the dpp44?
    Thanks Boozy

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    If anyone could answer it it be Terryl good job bro.
    Daddy & Mommy will always miss you

    Please do not PM Me with questions
    Post them in the forums so others may learn and benefit from your experience.

  15. #13
    beb022 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by boozy76 View Post
    So I will run the power inserter on its own coax to port 1 of my lnb or do I have to go through the dpp44?
    Thanks Boozy
    No you don't need the DP-44 just the power inserter.

  16. #14
    arby Guest

    Default

    NO, I'm running 4 different type dishes all with multi lnbs and all have a DP44 power inserter to port 1 and receivers on the same cable. 100.2, 100.4, superdish and a 500--only using the DP44 switch on the superdish with 4 lnbs. 110, 118.8, 119, 129. All dishes have been used for FTA , now 100.2 and 100.4 are on paid subs Dish receivers and FTA is being used with 22hz switch tying the superdish-dish ohz and 22hz to dish500 (82, 91 B3V) Just hook it up have never had a problem using single cable to a dish. Years ago I had lightning destroy a homemade power inserter and actually believe it saved receiver damage.

    Arby

  17. #15
    Nurrock Guest

    Default

    I actually have my power inserter inside. I plugged it into the wall. Used my same line that was going into my fta box and put it into the SWITCH input on the power inserter then ran a small cable from the inserter to the box, and its been working for weeks with no problem. I was going to run another line but this seemed to work for me. Maybe you can try it. using 1000.2 dish, 110/119/129

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